Review by Adria Cimino
[Bloomberg] -- How authentic is regional cuisine in Paris restaurants? That was the question as I set out on a culinary tour de France within the 20 districts of the city.
First was Au Bourguignon du Marais, serving specialties from Burgundy for the past 19 years. In the soft amber lighting, a quote by Alexandre Dumas about escargot stretches across the wall, setting a cozy tone as you enter the dining room.
We came for the beef burgundy [19 euros/$28] and weren't disappointed. Served in a cast-iron pot, the lean chunks of meat fell apart with a touch of the fork and the dark, rich sauce was tangy, with a hint of laurel. My French guest wondered if there had been a French grandmother in the kitchen preparing it.
We were less enthused by the rest: The steak with pepper sauce was bland, and starters, including grilled vegetable salad with San Daniele ham and parmesan and foie gras served with onion confit [18 euros], were fine but not exciting. A plate of regional cheeses [9 euros] upstaged uninspiring desserts.
We tasted three wines by the glass -- including a Nuits- Saint-Georges 2006 -- and they didn't live up to the price [8-9 euros each]. A shame, as the restaurant works with the former owner Jacques Bavard, who is now a wine negotiator in Burgundy.
Au Bourguignon du Marais, 52 rue Francois Miron, 75004 Paris. Information: +33-1-48.87.15.40. Rating: *
Actors, Politicians
Le Petit Colombier has attracted politicians such as the late President Francois Mitterrand and actors since the 1920s. It focuses on the "terroir," products and cuisine that are part of France's traditions. The 40 euro three-course menu offers a good selection of the delicate flavors of Provence, such as sea bream with an anis cream sauce, or sea bass with roasted fennel.
A veal chop was tender and juicy. Starters included foie gras with a spice bread crumble and raspberries, which my guest said was a great combination, and for something lighter, sauteed wild mushrooms. A Grand Marnier souffle that melted into cloudlike softness was extraordinary. What you save on food you can spend on wine. The French wines include only crus and premiers crus, including Chateau Petrus 1999 at 2,420 euros. We chose a Chateau Montbrison, Margaux 2002, for 70 euros.
Le Petit Colombier, 42, rue des Acacias, 75017 Paris. Information: +33-1-43.80.28.54 or click on http://www.restaurant-petit-colombier.com/ Rating: **
First Venture
Au Trou Gascon is chef Alain Alain Dutournier's first venture in Paris and the only Michelin one-star restaurant in the eastern part of the city. In a DVD given to each guest, Dutournier explains that he chose this former coachman's cafe not far from the Gare de Lyon because of the twice-weekly market in the neighborhood.
The cuisine reflects this interest in quality products from small producers. Gascony old cured ham [16 euros], aged three years, was sliced in the dining room. The paper-thin slices had a rich hazelnut flavor and were a fine match for the Saint-Estephe 1998 from Chateau Petit Bocq [90 euros a bottle].
Duck foie gras pate pie [20 euros], chock full of pistachios, was flavorful. I enjoyed a dense yet tender portion of monkfish, its caramelized exterior offsetting the spiciness of the piperade [28 euros]. My guest raved about the cassoulet [28 euros], which brought him back to a visit to the southwest. Our waiter carried a steaming clay pot to our table so we could peek inside before he whisked it away to a serving table.
Home-Made Sausage
Moments later, my guest was digging in to a plate of the stew loaded with home-made sausage, duck confit, spare rib, a lamb chop and white beans. The flavor of each meat wasn't lost in the mix. The beans were soft on the inside and just firm enough on the outside.
The cheese course also was prepared in the dining room. Thin slices of Brebis [ewe] de Gabas, from a small producer, melted in our mouths. Cabecous, a silver-dollar sized round of goat cheese, was flavorful and creamy.
The desserts were outstanding and beautifully presented. I loved the soft texture of my instant dainty chocolate ice cream [11 euros] and enjoyed its deep cocoa flavor paired with the sharp sweetness of mango chutney. My guest's pistachio cream cake with candied chestnut ice cream [12 euros] was also light and delicious.
The service was steady, the right pace from starters to desserts. We finished with a glass of Armagnac from 1989, served from one of the hundreds of varieties available. The restaurant offers 1,200 different wines, but Armagnac "is the star." Dutournier says.
Of my three regional meals in Paris, Au Trou Gascon also proved to be the star.
Au Trou Gascon, 40, rue Taine, 75012 Paris. Tel: 01.43.44.34.26. ***
The Bloomberg Questions
Cost? A la carte only from 30 euros at Au Bourguignon du Marais; 40 euro menu at Le Petit Colombier, and 51 euros a la carte or a 49 euro five-course tasting at Au Trou Gascon.
Sound level? Steady buzz of conversation in all three.
Date place? Yes for Au Bourguignon du Marais and Au Trou Gascon.
Inside tip? At Le Petit Colombier, if a woman orders the veal chop, the waiter will ask if the man wants to order it as well as they will serve the whole double chop. If the man orders it, the waiter won't try to influence the woman.
Special Feature? Au Trou Gascon serves 100 varieties of Armagnac. Au Bourguignon du Marais serves any item on its menu from noon to 11 p.m.
Will I be back? To Au Bourguignon for the beef burgundy, to Le Petit Colombier when I'm hosting visitors who want to try traditional cuisine and to Au Trou Gascon as often as possible.
[Adria Cimino writes for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are her own.]
To contact the reporter on this story: Adria Cimino in Paris at acimino1@bloomberg.net.
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